Lots of people I talk to get confused between the need to moisturise and hydrate the skin. Are the they same? Actually, they aren’t. Let me talk you through this and offer some suggestions to help you identify which you need and how to find some ingredients to suit your skin.
So, what’s the difference between hydration and moisture? Basically, hydration equals water, and moisture equals oil. If your skin is dehydrated, it is lacking water. And if your skin is dry, it is lacking oil. Both will leave your skin looking dull, tired and a bit blah ?. Let’s examine each in a bit more detail.
What is a hydrator?
A hydrator (like hyaluronic acid, which you may have heard of) helps to bring water to the skin using “humectants”. These humectants help collect moisture in the environment and bind it to the skin, which allows the skin to absorb the water.
Think of it like a big drink of water for your skin. All skin types (dry, oily, combination) and all skin concerns (acne, ageing, dullness) need hydration as many ways as possible. So, whilst drinking plenty of water is important, you also need to give your skin a little helping hand as sometimes drinking water is not enough. You can do this by ensuring it is well hydrated by getting water directly to the skin from the outside, applying it directly to your skin.
What is a moisturiser?
A moisturiser contains oils that help lock in hydration and keep the skin feeling soft and smooth. These can also be known as emollients. Our skin has a natural lipid (oil) barrier, but when skin is drier or ageing, the lipid barrier starts to break down, and the skin loses moisture. We then get something called trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). This can happen due to things we put on our skin, pollution and UV damage, ageing and fluctuating hormones. You can also get moisturisers called occlusives and these are predominantly for very dry or problem skin (such as eczema). They feel very thick and rich and heavy in consistency and may be ones to avoid if you have acne.
So, which do you need for your skin?
Both, in a nutshell! Hydrators fight dehydrated skin, while moisturisers lock in that hydration and create skin barrier protection. You may find you need different ones at different times of the year, or when your skin shows signs that it needs some #TLC
What about oily skin? Should I hydrate and moisturise as well?
Absolutely!! All skin types (even oily!) and skin concerns (even acne!) can benefit from hydrators and a moisturisers. If the skin is constantly stripped of hydration and natural oils from toners and harsh cleansers, it will overreact by producing more oil to try and protect the skin. The result can be oilier and more congested skin. Or even sore and irritated skin, which I see a lot of in my clinic, due to over exfoliating and using harsh products.
For oily and acne prone skins, you do need to be careful about choosing products that are specifically designed for these types of skin. For example, ones that will boost water levels in the skin, while lightweight moisturisers (that also contain acne and oil fighting ingredients) help lock in hydration and protect the skin but without being too thick, or clogging up those pores. Non comedogenic (what a great word, try saying THAT after a few gins!) means they are specially designed to avoid this.
Which ingredients should you use (and when) for hydration and moisture?
To give your skin a lovely refreshing boost of water, or hydration, look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, honey and aloe. A great choice is sodium hyaluronate, which is a form of hyaluronic acid (HA) that hydrates by drawing water into the outer layers from deep within the skin. It holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making skin plumper, softer and smoother. Please do choose your brands carefully though, as many companies talk about using hyaluronic acid in their products, but the strength and preparation of them are often so low or in the wrong form, it’s pretty much like throwing money in the bin. Low molecular weight HA is a great option. If you’re wondering what on earth that is, it is just that the HA as it is small enough to penetrate through the skin’s barrier and be effective. For more info on this, check out this amazing article. Allantoin is also a great option, and good for oily/acne prone skins. It comes from the comfrey plant and increases water content of the skin, so is a great choice.
For moisturising the skin, try shea butter, which is rich in vitamin E and vitamin A and has moisturising, soothing and antioxidant properties (maybe not for acne/break out prone skins). Or how about tocopherol acetate, which is another form of vitamin E and can be used on acne prone skin. Also, keep and eye out for Niacinamide (vitamin B3), which increases ceramides and free fatty acids in the skin, which are key components of its protective lipid barrier. Along with keeping in moisture and boosting hydration, niacinamide also brightens skin and calms redness. I love, love, love niacinamide.
Don’t forget, your skincare needs will change with the seasons (e.g. in winter when our skin takes a bashing from the cold and central heating), so prepare to switch it up a bit.
To summarise, hydration is about the water content of the skin, whereas moisturisation is about the skin’s ability to retain water molecules. Our skin needs both elements to maintain optimum levels of moisture and prevent excessive loss of water. Hydrators and moisturisers should be applied every morning and night for best results, but each person is individual and your skin changes, as we’ve already discussed, so try and tune into what your skin needs and adapt to meet those needs.
So, should you moisturise and hydrate? I’ll leave that up to you to decide.
As always, I am not pushing products on you here guys, this is purely info only and you can find these ingredients in many products. Of course you know I work with and love Alumier MD and they are a medical grade skincare company who use the best active ingredients (as mentioned above) to help treat skin and skin conditions. Please do your own research and find what works best for you – but if you would like a bit of help, advice or you’re overwhelmed with all the products out there and not sure where to start, why not book in for a complimentary consultation.
If you want to know more, have any questions or comments, please give me a holler!! You can also subscribe to my mailing list so you know when the next blog goes out. I would love you to get in touch with any topics you’d like me to cover in the next posts/blogs too.